Monopod Rod Rests

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John Softly
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Monopod Rod Rests

Post by John Softly » Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:24 pm

I thought that this one would be worth a revisit.
We have been using them for the past five years and have found them to be far superior to those constructed of poly pipe.
(a) They hold firmly in the sand and can be forced in fine sand by foot pressure on the lower attachment - never had one fall over.
(b) Removal of the rod on the strike is easy and quicker because, unlike poly pipe rests, the rod hasn't got to be lifted to clear the pipe.
(c) When fishing two rods the rests are placed so that the rod tips are 15 cm apart. The tips will move in unison with wave and wind action but if the movement of one rod differs from the other chances are something is interested in what is attached to the hook end.
(d) Line tension between the rod tip and the sinker can be adjusted so that the tips are slightly bent. This will enable early bite detection should a fish pick up the bait and run shoreward.

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A MATCHED PAIR OF ROD RESTS
To make these rests you will need two lengths of 3mm x 40mm aluminium angle 1.2 metres in length, a length of 50mm ID poly pipe aprox 30 cm long, 2 x 6mm x 30mm bolts with countersunk screw heads and bolts to match, 2 x 6mm x 80mm screw head bolts with butterfly nuts to match. The odd thing you have to find is some non flexible tubing - 50mm long with an internal ID of at least 6mm.
Make the two cuts at one end of the ally angle to fashion the sharp end. They need to be a longer angle than 45 degrees.
You now need to cut 4 pieces of poly pipe - 2 x 40mm and 2 x 80mm. The shorter of the two goes at the top of the rest to hold the rod and the longer at the bottom to act as cups for the butts.
Take the two shorter pieces and make two lengthway cuts to fashion a 舛
Do not cut them in half as the 鼠egsneed to be longer to stop the rod falling out in a strong side wind. The proviso is that the blank must pass easily through he gap in the C.
Drill a 6mm hole in the centre of the C (about -C there) and countersink the inside. To fit this piece to the ally angle a 6mm hole has to be drilled at the top of the rest (the opposite end to the sharp end) Place the C pieces of poly pipe on the inside of the angle and mark the hole but ensure that the top of the poly pipe is 5mm above the top of the ally. Drill the hole and then take a file and make a flat on the leading edge of the V on either side of the hole so that the nut can bed itself. (If you are careful the flat can be made the exact size of the nut). Screw the C piece of pipe to the ally angle and, with a hacksaw cut off the excess protruding through the nut.
You now need two pieces of poly pipe 80mm long and a hole has to be drilled centrally through the tube 50mm from one end. This is where the 50mm lengths of non flexible tube come in ( I use off cuts of rod blanks). These are placed inside the poly tube so that the 80mm bolt goes through it. This stops the poly tube compressing into an oval when the butterfly nut is tightened. They also cushion the butt cap so that it isn稚 damaged by the screw of the bolt.
Holes now have to be drilled through the leading edge of the angle ally to take the bolt of the butt cups. Mine are positioned at 54 and 66 cm痴 from the top. Ideally they should be placed so that the reel is clear of the top of the rest and as I always fish with the reel up the butt these positions suit me. File flats on the leading edge so that the butterfly nuts can bed and push the bolt through one side of the poly tube, through the non flexible tube, through the other side of the tube and through the angle ally - screw on the butterfly nut. The longer side of the butt cup is placed uppermost.
The top nut and bolt need to be stainless, as they are permanent fixtures, but the long bolt and butterfly nut can be ordinary galvanised and replaced when rusty.
The angles fit inside each other when transporting the rests and the butt cups are in the tackle box.

Cheers
John

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