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Pulley rig

Posted: Sun Dec 18, 2005 7:54 pm
by kenmare
Hi guys,

I can see useful applications for breakaway rigs in addition to their use in beach tailor fishing, as pointed out by John.

According to websites I've looked at, advantages of the pulley rig:

1. fish pick up bait without detecting the rig until they hook themselves.

2. when used on snaggy bottoms, the weight of a hooked fish pulls line through the top swivel and lift sinker away from the bottom.

Snapper fishing from the shore around here is often done from rocks at the end of beaches, by casting out to deeper water sand patches between reef. If the cast falls short, then it's goodbye rig.

Some guys use fixed rigs and shorten everything up to improve bait/sinker aerodynamics so as to make the distance.

Seems to me that by using a pulley rig,with the bait tucked in behind sinker and impact shield, it should be possible to present baits on longer leaders, avoid shy fish detecting sinker weight, and reduce the likelihood of snagging. A trifecta of benefits.

As we're going into the snapper season, I'd like to sort-out how to construct pulley rigs.


1. What is the relationship between the length of the sinker trace and the hook trace -- how much longer should the sinker trace be?

2. Does the length of the traces have any effect on rig effectiveness?

3. What purpose do the beads and crimps on the sinker trace serve?

4. When the hook is positioned in the bait clip/impact shield, where should the swivel which joins the sinker trace and hook trace be in relation to the top swivel, prior to the cast being made?

5. I've noticed that some ready made rigs use lighter line for the hook trace than the sinker trace -- I can see advantages in doing this when snapper fishing, but are there any disadvantages?

Any thoughts?



Posted: Sun Dec 18, 2005 9:05 pm
by John Softly


The components are self explanitory.
The main line is clipped onto the swivel at the top. The bead and stop to the right of the swivel stops the hook (or swivel if you are using a seperate snood) from being pulled too far. Where the rig body is broken you can add a swivel and use a heavier line for the snood.
The bead on the left hand side stops the swivel hitting the next bead which is the impact shield activator.
Make sure that the bait is lighter than the sinker by a fair margin otherwise the rig won't work.

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2005 11:16 am
by kenmare
Hi John,

Hope you had a nice Chrustmas.

The impact shields and other bits I ordered from Veals in the UK arrived within a couple of days. Excellent service.

I've just made up pulley rig bodies and ganged hook traces, using some Stren .70 mm hard mono I already had in my kit (can't remember why I bought it years ago, but it crimps well, even though I've found it extremely difficult to knot)

The pulley rigs look as though they'll work -- I'll give them a try in a couple of weeks, when the beaches return to normal as people return to work and kids go back to school.

Thanks for your help with this.

The various hard monos -- Jinkai, Mason, Stren, Penn etc -- have a lot of memory when they have been coiled. To straighten, you just pull the line between your figures a couple of times to create a little friction heat?



Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:00 am
by cyberfish
Let us know how you go kenmare. I'm also going to make a few pulley rigs with gang hooks for jews off the beach this summer. They look good!

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 3:33 pm
by tima

The only advantage of a pulley rig is your point number 2 - That's what the rig was designed for.

As to point 1 if you want to (theoretically) offer less resistance to a biting fish the fishfinder rig is better although, once you cast a reasonable way, a fixed paternoster is probably just as good.



Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 6:08 pm
by cyberfish
I imagine another advantage of the pulley rig might be to make it simple to have the right distance between the hook attached to the bait clip and the mainline swivel as it self-adjusts by running through the top swivel so everything is secure for casting.

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 12:46 pm
by tima

Bait clips are supposed to move as you cast to stop the hook being pulled out of the clip due to the stretch in the body part of the trace so you should have a degree of adjustment anyway. The bit of slack thus generated in the snood helps the hook release from the clip when the lead hits the water.

Tim A