Broken Head: Pretty as a Picture
Wayne Kampe

MY research into destinations, as viable holidaying alternatives, to present has taken me for some interesting drives around the south-east corner of Queensland and into New South Wales. Oddly enough, some of the better places that have really taken my fancy have been in the northern section of our neighbouring state. Broken Head is one of them.

THE MYSTIQUE

As a fishing destination, the place has always had a mystical air about it - the result of a mate, of many year’s standing, recounting tales of huge greenback tailor and thumping big luderick being hauled from the rocks at the headland. The tailor were real horses, the luderick not the least shy (according to him), and they would climb all over a cabbage weed bait in a most indelicate fashion - small wonder that I had to see the place for myself.

When the car finally turned off at the parking area, I must say I was impressed. The view back along the beach to Byron Bay was that of a long expanse of surf beach, and a look to the south revealed headlands and rock outcrops just begging to be fished by the rock angler.

ACCESS

To access the headlands and sheltered beaches of Broken Head, it’s necessary for the traveller to approach via Byron Bay or Ballina, taking the road right along the coast. Byron Bay and Ballina are well known and easily located from the Pacific Highway, but Broken Head might well be bypassed if the traveller doesn't keep an eye out for the sign posts along the coast road.

BROKEN HEAD CARAVAN PARK

The caravan park (which is the hub of Broken Head) is situated about seven kilometres south of Byron Bay. It is operated by the Byron Shire; I can just imagine that it was packed full of sight seers on the night of 31 December last year, as millennium fever whipped to its long anticipated peak. The magnificent headland adjoining the caravan park offers splendid views of each and every sunrise, and on that clear morning I can visualise folk standing on the grassy slopes, clinging to the rock ledges, and even up in the trees (like monkeys) in their efforts to be the first to see the dawn of the year two thousand. (And good luck to them. I went cod fishing, waking at four-thirty to put together my No.8 fly rod.)

With a backdrop of lush rainforest (a nature reserve), the Broken Head caravan park nestles discreetly into the shaded hillside stretching above. The park is sheltered against practically every breeze, bar a due easterly blow, and I would estimate that, even during a roaring westerly gale, tenants would hardly feel a thing. In short, this is a comfortable place to be.

Tent sites, van sites and cabins for hire are all there, and my inquiries revealed that some of the on-site cabins were totally self-contained (shower plus toilet), while others offered toilet facilities only. Rates varied between peak and off-peak season, with weekly costs ranging from around three hundred and thirty dollars (off season) to four hundred and twenty dollars per week (on season - for example, the September school holidays) right through to six hundred and two dollars per week during Easter and Christmas holidays. The rates quoted are for double occupancy. Extra persons attract further costs.

Tent sites vary from eighty-four dollars per couple per week(off season) to ninety-two dollars per week (September) and one hundred and fifty dollars per week during Easter and Christmas holidays. Again, any extra occupants will incur extra charges. Sites are powered, if required.

The caravan park fees are not the most inexpensive I’ve ever seen, indicating the demand for this very neat and well set up camping and holiday facility. Booking for anything other than the off season is essential: first in, best dressed.

SIGHTSEEING IN BYRON

The shop at the caravan park offers basic foodstuffs, while nearby Byron Bay has just about every facility coming and going, and then some. Want your fortune told, or perhaps a palm or two read? What about a look at some tarot cards? Byron Bay has a reputation for laid-back lifestyle – the hippy sub culture being alive and well - and some of the folk I noticed while lunching in town were well and truly laid back! In fact, I noticed one quite attractive young lady dressed entirely in beads, while another young lady seemed to be attired in a garment made from long strands of raffia-like material. An interesting business.

Dressing (or un-dressing) habits of locals aside, Byron Bay has all the usual medical and sports facilities, stores of all kinds, mechanics and last, but not least, tackle outlets. Only a few minutes drive from this major centre, Broken Head is hardly isolated, yet camping there is so neat, so cut off from the hustle and bustle of outside influence, that the place could be one hundred kilometres away from any major town.

THE HEADLAND

The high and outstanding headland is arguably the most dominant feature of Broken Head, with well-formed walking tracks along the eastern face, which is a proclaimed nature reserve. A lot of the walk is well shaded by palms and luxuriant tropical growth, and the resulting coolness is easy to take on a hot summer’s day. Once out of the forest area and on the headland proper, the scenic views to the south are very easy on the eye. The adjoining ledges and areas of low rock joining deep water also took my speculative eye. I noticed one angler with a bent rod, giving heaps to some unseen opponent; unfortunately, the distance was too great for a photo.

A simple but tasteful monument is erected on the walking track. To read it is to give sombre reflection to the war time tragedy of an aircraft that failed to make it to Amberley, or Archerfield, air base due to severe flying conditions. With the pilot apparently lost and fuel low, the Lockheed Hudson bomber ditched into the sea nearby in fifty-seven metres of water. The final words on the small plaque, bearing testimony to the loss of ten lives, are quite fitting: “Lest we forget.”

FOR THE ANGLER

I see Broken Head as the sort of holiday venue that offers a lot of potential for either anglers or folk who just like to hide from life for awhile, something we all like to do at times, eh? Anglers will find there is very good beach fishing for whiting, dart, bream and a few sand mullet along the beach; worms can be pulled by exponents of the art of beach worming. Bream, tailor, jew and blackfish are available from the rocks and lower ledges if rock fishing is undertaken. Boating is not easy here due to a lack of suitable ocean access, but that aside, this little holiday destination has a lot going for it.

The telephone contact number for the caravan park is (02) 6685 3245.