Kirkleagh, Somerset Dam

KIRKLEAGH is on the northern end of Somerset Dam on the Stanley River. This is strictly an angler's destination unless you, like myself, don't mind the idea of taking in a bit of wildlife as well.

GETTING THERE

There are two main routes to choose from.

One way is to take the Brisbane Valley Highway (turning off at Blacksoil west of Ipswich) and look for the turn-off to Somerset Dam a couple of kilometres north of Esk. From this turn-off the you can enjoy the scenic drive along the edge of Somerset Dam, and within half an hour you’ll see Kirkleagh sign-posted at the northern end of the dam.

The other route involves taking the turn-off to Caboolture on the Bruce Highway around 50km north of Brisbane. From Caboolture, keep driving west until you reach the small town of Kilcoy. On the western outskirts of Kilcoy you’ll see a sign telling you that Somerset Dam is only a few kilometres away, and after a few minutes’ travel along this road you’ll see the signpost to Kirkleagh.

Kilcoy has a general store, a post office, hardware store, two butchers, a (great) baker, two hotels, Ray White Real Estate, medical centre, and hospital. The service station is a popular fuelling up spot and takeaway food outlet. Because Kirkleagh has only a kiosk, most visitors shop at Kilcoy.

CAMPING

Camping at Kirkleagh is laid back, with modest fees. You can set up camp anywhere that isn’t fenced or roped off, and this covers a wide variety of situations - beside the water, away from it, or in between. Most camp sites are level and provide you with a great view of the of tall hills around the horizon.

Facilities at the Kirkleagh camping area are spot-on. There are lots of brick and stainless steel fittings, and the showers have lots of lovely hot water.

A kiosk and information centre is set up centrally within the camping area, and it opens nice and early. Entry to the camping area is not restricted to kiosk operating times, of course, and campers arriving after hours can set up their gear and pay fees at the kiosk or to a visiting ranger the next day.

Power boat operators are required to purchase a power boating permit prior to heading off in search of fish. A week-long permit isn’t expensive, and you can purchase one of these (or a more extended permit) from the kiosk at the camp grounds. Canoes and sail boats are exempt from this fee.

THE FISHING

One of the best things about enjoying a stay at Kirkleagh is that it's an all-seasons venue. Don't forget the stocked impoundment permit! This dam is re-stocked with funds raised from this scheme.

During our trip to Somerset Dam last winter, bass were our target. We took a fair few other species on the fly gear as well though (and I also caught a fat freshwater mussel, fair hooked with the shell closed on my Kampey purple and black Clouser imitation). Denise and I both caught bass, and she had the best of it with a beauty of over 50cm. My mate Richard also bagged a fat yellowbelly on the fly. Bass always dominated the catches during those late winter months, and we relied heavily on the Lowrance X75 sounder in my boat to find the feeding schools.

It’s now summer, and guess what? The bass are still there. They’re just somewhat more scattered, that's all. Yellowbelly are more easily caught now, and for the bait angler there are jew as well. And Kirkleagh is still a great place to camp in summer given that you can now enjoy a swim, the welcome evening coolness, and the general laid-back atmosphere.

A few years back Somerset seemed to be almost overshadowed by the much larger Wivenhoe Dam to the south, simply because of the exciting prospects this huge new impoundment offered. Bass and other native species were stocked mightily into Wivenhoe Dam, but for every bass that has ever been caught there are thousands of blue catfish that came onboard first. The Wivenhoe catties are out of control and so Somerset reigns supreme as a freshwater fishing destination.

All legal methods of taking a fish work at Somerset Dam. Bait is virtually infallible and a live shrimp (taken by using a shrimp trap around the timber or a patch of weed) is a no-risk bait. Naturally, you cannot choose which species will take your shrimp! You can expect catfish, tilapia, the good-natured yellowbelly, and fine eating bass to all sign on for a feed of fresh shrimp, as well as spangled perch and the odd Mary River cod.

Lure and fly fishing are also good methods, and many anglers employ either or both depending on the conditions. Spinnerbaits have accounted for heaps of fish from this dam over the past years, and now Slider Grubs are coming into their own as well.

I believe fly fishing is an expert's method of taking fish, especially in deep water. It’s a deadly method if you really know how to interpret what your sounder is displaying.

This big dam is host to a fair crew of water skiers and it interesting to see how easily boat fishos and skiers get along harmoniously. Each go about doing their own thing without getting in each other’s way.

WILDLIFE

As well as keen anglers, Kirkleagh is a good place for those who like to take in a bit of wildlife. There are water birds of all kinds, as well as all manner of hawks and the majestic wedge-tailed eagle. I saw a peregrine falcon make a full-speed dive on a black duck during one of my trips to Kirkleagh, and that was an unforgettable sight.

During your stay you will also see the odd wallaby and heaps of hares. At night on our last trip we were invaded by the long-eared animals and I speculated, wickedly, that I could make a lot of trout flies from the pelt of one of those hares!