HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS IN THE SUN: NORTH STRADBROKE ISLAND: DUNWICH - THE GATEWAY
Wayne Kampe, Brisbane, Camping.

THIS month we are going to look at North Stradbroke Island. To adequately describe all the island has to offer in one feature article would be near impossible so there will need to be a series of articles to do it justice. As the Straddie (local name) experience usually starts at Dunwich as the major ferry terminal this quaint little town will be our destination for this month's article.

North Stradbroke Island lies directly east of Queensland's capital. Strangely, there are no signs around Brisbane pointing the way to the island but for visitors approaching from the south a sign just north of the Logan River (past Beenleigh) will indicate the bayside localities of Redland Bay, Cleveland and access to Stradbroke Island is via these localities.

A vehicular ferry departs from Banana Street, Redland Bay and travellers heading east from the Pacific Highway will be able to access the island via this ferry. From within Brisbane proper access is via the town of Cleveland which is reached by travelling due east along Old Cleveland Road (via Capalaba) into Finucane Road and Middle Street Cleveland. The Stradbroke Ferries terminal is right at the end of Middle Street and is sign posted as such.

Stradbroke Island remains very much an unspoiled sort of island paradise. There are no bridges to the island: from time to time the idea of one is resurrected but at this stage it's all still on a drawing board somewhere so access remains via one of the vehicular or passenger carrying ferry services. I have a sneaking suspicion that many people prefer it to remain just the way it is too.

This large island is steeped in history, much of which remains in evidence today. The town of Dunwich was first established as a convict out station. Then it was designated (in order) a Roman Catholic Mission, a Quarantine Station and finally its last public duty was as a Benevolent Institution for senior citizens. How's that for a mixed bag?

Visitors to Dunwich can't help but notice the ample signs of those early days, either. The big public hall, for instance, was built in 1913 and in its hey-day could seat 400 people. Another land mark is St Mark's church which was built in 1908. To gain a working knowledge of the town's background first port of call would be the North Stradbroke Island Visitor's Centre located in the main shopping centre. From there it's on to the museum in Welsby Street (open Wednesdays and Saturdays) for a glimpse of artefacts and remnants of a way of life long gone but well remembered.

Stradbroke Island is home to two respected Aboriginal tribes: the Nunukul and Goenpul people inhabited the island long before white man ever set foot on it. An insight into the rich way of life of the Aboriginal people may be gained by joining one of the remaining native inhabitants on an informative walking tour of the town and surrounds. This tour, designated The Goompi Trail, may be arranged through the Visitor's Centre at a cost of $12.

Dunwich offers two camping grounds for visitors to stay in, namely Bradbury's Beach and Adam's Beach. These are not large facilities so far as camping grounds go which is much in keeping with the quiet, laid back style of life on the island. Adam's Beach camp grounds offers four powered and three unpowered sites while Bradbury's is larger with two powered and 30 unpowered sites.

Beach access is available from either facility although neither has a boat ramp for direct access to the water. A public ramp at Dunwich is only a kilometre from Adam's Beach and at Bradbury's there is the Little Ships ramp at One Mile which is just around the corner to the north. If deep water mooring for a larger boat is required then Bradbury's is the most suitable of the two camping grounds.

Dunwich allows access to the calm waters that lay inside the island. Great reef fishing for boaties can be had around the adjoining islands of Goat, Bird and Peel. Daylight or dusk will usually see the rods bending as reefies such as squire, sweetlip or parrot attack baits. In the adjoining deep channels, of which the Rainbow Channel is foremost, pelagics such as mackerel or tuna are much sought. Whiting are found in almost all areas where sand banks abound, which covers a lot of country at and around Dunwich.

For shore based anglers a popular venue is Bradbury's as a large sand bank allows low tide access to the deep water adjoining the Rainbow Channel. Target species here are whiting, flathead and bream. Yabbies are there for the pumping so bait is assured. Night fishing is good at Dunwich too; with bream and big whiting regularly taken. On calm nights squid are usually about as well and may be caught at both the Dunwich and One Mile jettys with the popular jigs set up as terminal tackle.

For those visitors who like to get about and really soak up the atmosphere of the place there are some worthwhile attractions to visit. The island boasts an outstanding freshwater lake system (Blue Lake and Brown Lake are the main ones) and these are very popular venues for day trips and picnics.

Access to both is via the Trans Island Road from Dunwich. Both lakes are well signposted and great places for a fresh water dip on a hot summer's day. Remember that camping and pets are not allowed at these venues which offer opportunities to view wild life in quiet solitude. Blue Lake with its superb clarity and white sand bottom is particularly inviting and the clear cool water has been sourced from the Darling Downs area inland from Toowoomba. Interesting, eh?

Another interesting area to visit is Myora Springs picnic area. These springs offer swimming in a cool spring fed water hole which is accessed via a great little patch of tropical forest. It's well sign posted on the main access road to Amity/Point Lookout and is just four kilometres out from Dunwich. The Myora caravan park nearby also offers 33 camp sites as well as on-site vans and cabins. There is beach access via a track through the mangroves and yabbies are there for the pumping.

All visitors to Dunwich are well catered for. There is a sports store to ensure tackle supplies can be topped up and local retail outlets include a bakery and general stores. There is also a hotel, post office, take away food outlets and health centre. Eftpos is available at many facilities in town.

Dunwich is truly the gateway to the island yet it offers a lot in itself. The sheltered aspect of the locality is important as even in strong south-easters fishing can be still enjoyed and the proximity of the open ocean just a few kilometres away via the passage between Moreton and North Stradbroke Islands virtually guarantees that fishing remains superb all year round.