HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS IN THE SUN: HARRY'S CAMPING AREA - GREAT SANDY NATIONAL PARK
Wayne Kampe, Brisbane, Camping.
A SURE sign of an area's popularity will be the measures taken to protect it. Put simply, an area can be over-used and the very features that make it so endearing denigrated beyond restoration. In this month's issue our destination is a little protected but maintained in excellent condition as the result.
Situated in the Great Sandy National Park, in the Cooloola Section, Harry's Hut Camping Area is one of the most well known localities on the Noosa River. Beautiful scenery, enjoyable bush walks, a clean softly flowing river and lots and lots of bass are the things the area has always been famous for.
Harry's Hut is more than a locality as there's actually an old hut there, situated right by the river. Appropriate signage designates its history and use. Nearby is a National Parks rest area complete with fresh drinking water and amenities which, although basic, are much in tune with the general surrounds.
There was a time when only the bravest of four wheel drive owners ventured to Harry's Hut in search of trophy bass and solitude. The track was a ball breaker. Today, however, the road is easier to find, formed, and far less inclined to bog a vehicle to its axles. The bass, however, are still there and so too are the unique sights and sounds of the coastal forest and its inhabitants. Kangaroos, myriads of birds including the splendid black cockatoos and honeyeaters are a part of it.
This section of the Cooloola area is accessed via the Bruce Highway via the town of Cooroy. Cooroy is a short distance of the Highway and from there one looks for the Pomona sign after topping up on supplies in town. A short fourteen kilometre journey will see you about to enter the town of Kin Kin. A right turn just before town will put the car onto the road to Wolvi, via Gympie. Kin Kin creek will be a landmark to ensure that the vehicle is on the right course to Harry's Hut.
Some twelve kilometres out from Kin Kin the unsealed Cooloola Way is sign posted on the right, just after a short climb up a rainforest shrouded range on a gravel road. The Cooloola Way, ultimately leading to our destination in the sun, is signed to indicate that Rainbow Beach is some 48 kays distance.
Cooloola Way is a quite reasonable unsealed road through pine forest, rain forest and banksia wallum scrub - in that order. A landmark will be McRae's road on the left. From there it's not far to the Harry's Hut turnoff which is well signed. Total distance from the Cooloola Way sign to Harry's Hut is 14 kilometres although at 30 kilometres an hour it does seem somewhat further.
A word on the track might be in order. Although signed as 'four wheel drive only' I can't see any problem unless very heavy rain makes the section near the Cooloola Way turnoff greasy. The rest of the road is mainly sand on a solid fill road base (although pot holed) and nice and easy is the way to go. Large caravans might be a problem unless one had a four wheel drive up front but camper trailers (I took mine quite recently) and small vans will do it easy.
This little gem of a camping area, a truly unblemished wilderness area, is for the freshwater angler. True, just a few kays to the east, Teewah Beach is so close you can hear the surf rolling in but Harry's is as good a fresh water location as I've ever had the pleasure to visit.
Each camp site is set into the forest so as to be almost hidden from the next. The ground is level, clean and invariably pine needle coated. The only sound is that of birds or the soft sighing of the trees in the on-shore breeze. A number of small access jetties service the camp sites and this feature is brilliant. One can tie a small craft or canoe up right at camp. A cup of coffee while just watching as set rod and the river from one of the jetties is as good as it gets. Love it!
Bass, and to some extent eels and fork tailed catties, are the mainstay of the fishing. The river is slightly stained by tannin from tea tree swamps throughout its catchment area but there is still sufficient visibility to make lure and fly angling a real pleasure. A mesh bait trap will secure shrimps and small fish for bait anglers who like to float fish.
River access at the camping areas is confined to small boats able to be carried to the water - and this means that Folda Boats, light tinnies, canoes, scanoes and kayaks are ideal. Owners of larger boats may launch at Boreen Point on Lake Cootharaba and then travel up river. Boats may also be hired at this location. The river trip is a pleasant journey in itself but remember that the speed limit in the Noosa River is a strict six knots to prevent bank erosion.
While some parties launch at Boreen Point then have their car and trailer brought to Harry's Hut camping area, most choose to go the canoe/Folda Boat route once on location. Note, too (camp sites are well signed) that upstream of camp site number three it's electric or person power only. No fossil powered motors are permitted.
This attractive freshwater environment is tailor made for either fly fishing or lure fishing. On daylight and dusk the bass are active surface feeders and can be heard popping food items from the top from some distance.
While surface flies, such as straight out poppers, Dahlberg Divers and Muddler Minnows will take bass at dawn (and on dark) wet flies worked on a sinking line will take a hell of a lot as well. Nearly all active diving lures are worth a go. As the water is tannin stained a good contrast in colours is smart thinking. Bait is near foolproof but I believe that bass deserve a little better treatment than swallowing a hook.
Harry's Hut area is true wilderness camping. There are no shops, no tackle stores, no phones - although mobiles work fine in the locality. Users are expected to be self sufficient. That said, it's an easy enough place to get in and out of and the solitude, peacefulness, the river - and its fishing - all make it a 'must see' destination.
Queensland National Parks and Wildlife Service have offices in the area for local enquiries and permits to visit. Rainbow Beach is accessed via phone number (07) 5486 3160, Tewantin is (07) 5449 7364, Gympie is (07) 5482 5444 while Noosa is (07) 5447 4988. Just day tripping? An honour box set is maintained at Harry's Hut (cost is $3.50 per night per person) and the rangers visit most days. Further information can be had by contacting Queensland National Parks and Wildlife Service, Department of Environment, direct.
For the visitor to the area clean toilet amenities, fresh drinking water and a number of semi-tame scrub turkeys are all part of the experience. Walking tracks are well maintained and are a pleasure to access for day trips.
In all, the Cooloola experience is one of peace and quiet, so hard to find in today's hustle and bustle that we call a life.
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