FRASER ISLAND: THE MAGNIFICENT - HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS IN THE SUN: (Part 2)
Wayne Kampe.

IN last month's issue, I outlined some of the highlights of the southern half of Fraser Island, from an area roughly south of Happy Valley. I mentioned the several resorts and camping areas available as well as the very attractive option of camping right above high water mark for easy access to the fish.

Happy Valley is approximately mid-way up the island from the point of access at Hook Point. This resort is very well set out and offers a large degree of comfort for visitors. The shop provides gas, ice and fuel if required. The nearby Yidney Rocks (just south) can really turn on the bream, if conditions are right, and tailor are always a possibility in any of the holes that come and go as regularly as the tides. A bypass track has been established as the rocks become nearly impassable at times.

Eli Creek is an important feature on the east coast of Fraser Island, with many megalitres of beautiful freshwater running out to the sea each day. But be warned: it may be tempting to clean off the car, but under no circumstances should you stop your four-wheel drive in the bed of the creek to do so. That ever shifting sand will swallow it up very smartly! If you want to wash off the salt spray, park nearby and use a couple of buckets.

Just north of Eli Creek, The Maheno Wreck often has a good gutter nearby - or even right at it - and tailor, dart or whiting are usually available. A short drive further north is the Cathedral Beach area. The spectacular coloured sand-cliffs of the Cathedrals make a great backdrop to the many gutters which form on this particular stretch of beach. I might add that this particular area is regarded as one of the best for tailor, and I cannot remember one trip to Fraser Island, in spring, when I haven't enjoyed good tailor fishing at the Cathedrals.

The resort and camping area of the Cathedrals is very popular with travellers. So, too, is the smaller, nearby Dundubara camping area, where a lot of the sites are nestled into the forest. From Dundubara north, the long stretch of beach can be one continuous gutter, and it's not uncommon to see tailor anglers fishing over a many hundred-metre front, rods bending here and there as the fish take a bait. At other times, the fish are confined to particular holes, or slightly deeper areas, and it's only a matter of making a few casts to see if tailor are about. I often use a red Raider lure to locate fish and switch to bait as soon as the first hook-up occurs.

Three headlands with true rock formations (as distinct from the soft coffee rocks on the beach of Poyungan, Yidney or Ngkala, or Brown's rocks) are north of the Cathedrals. The first is Indian Head, then Middle Rocks and Waddy Point. The views from these outlooks can be spectacular and are ‘must see’ points for visitors. It's always: “Everyone out and take a look!”

Indian Head is a darned big hill and a terrific vantage point; from here, it's very common to see whales breaching as they travel north or south on their assigned, instinctive journeys. Common, too, are sharks, rays or the odd big jewie or cobia scouting around the headland while, out in the clean blue of the ocean, schools of tuna, tailor or queenies may be hoeing into hapless baitfish.

The RAAF are also represented. From time to time, an ultra low-flying F111 from Amberley will make a thundering pass over Indian Head to zoom along the ocean beach. Inevitably, a lot of swivelling necks and surprised looks are left in its wake.

True rock fishing is available at these three headlands, but Indian Head and Waddy Point seem to be the most popular, probably because of their larger size and easy access. Depending on the prevailing breeze, Indian Head can offer Alvey-armed rock anglers the chance of tailor, bream, jew or just about anything that swims. Big fish are hooked and never sighted at this place! Land-based game fishos can also get in the act, and the northern side of Indian Head is particularly well-suited to the pursuit. It's easy to get hold of a live tailor and float him out, under a balloon, in search of a mackerel or kingie. A long gaff will be an asset in the final stages of contact with a big fellow.

The lower northern section of the rocks, known quaintly as "The Pebbles", will look after the fly angler's requirements, provided the seas aren't too big. I took a lot of trevally from these rocks when fishing there last July during quiet times. Tailor were also getting in on the act, pinching my Clousers and Deceivers, until I upped the ante with a small bit of forty-kilo Jinkai at the end of the leader. A nine weight rod is about right; some of the trevally were brutes. A stripping basket is very useful to keep the fly line out of the wave action and rocks.

The camping grounds for this entire headland area are at Waddy Point. Some thirty-odd individual sites are marked, with another large area set aside for camping in the nearby foredunes. Showers and toilets are set up for campers. Rock and beach fishing are popular, but it's the boaties who love Waddy Point, simply because they can launch from the beach to fish offshore.

Because the entire area at Waddy is protected by the headland, it's well-sheltered from south-east and, to some extent, easterly winds. Launching straight into the gutter in the lee of the headland can be pretty straightforward when the seas are quiet. Not surprisingly, it's a mecca for boat anglers who make the effort to trail their craft up the island to fish for prized reef fish and those big pelagics that frequent the nearby reefs.

Truly, the results can be well worth the big effort involved in the exercise. All of the most prized reef fish are available, including big nobbies, the much prized emperor, coral trout, pearlies and so forth. Pelagics are much sought after for their fighting ability. Mega mackerel and wahoo, as well as huge cobia and tuna, set the game reels spinning for those anglers targeting these species for both sport and table. Cobia and amberjacks also stretch anglers’ tackle and arms to the limit.

These are big fish waters and, due to their remote location, are not hammered into oblivion by weekend anglers armed with precise GPS bearings - as we've seen elsewhere along our eastern seaboard. Fishing pressure remains light.

North of Waddy Point, things may start to become difficult travel wise. A lot of angst can be caused by the Ngkala rock formations, which might be OK one week and darned near impossible the next. It's wise to look long and hard at the chances of getting through before committing the car to possible bogging. Tow trucks are as scarce as rocking horse manure up here. That said, there can be good gutters here and at Brown's Rocks, providing some red-hot tailor fishing.

Some overall hints for travellers: Fraser Island is a fabulous holiday destination but it is remote from the mainland. Most stores and other facilities operate on an eight to four, or five, basis. Doctors, dentists and pharmacies are non-existent. Mobile phones usually won't function (hooray!), but there are public telephones on the island at most resorts and camping grounds, as well as Dundubara, Waddy Point, Central Station and Indian Head.

Carrying some spare fuel and water containers - plus basic vehicle extraction gear such as shovel, jacking-up blocks, snatch strap and a bit of old carpet for placing under wheels - makes sense. Travelling only at low tide means you probably won't need them, though.

When camping on the beach, extra long and bulky tent pegs, plus plenty of rope, will be required to keep the tent on the ground during a blow. Hot showers at camping areas are usually coin operated - a good supply of twenty-cent coins very handy indeed.

Bait is easy to come by away from the retail outlets as most of the beaches north of Happy Valley are blessed with beach worms. Pipis are very common south of Indian Head, assuring whiting, dart and bream bait. Remember, there is a strictly enforced restriction on fishing for tailor from just south of Indian Head through to Waddy Point in spring. The area closed for spawning is well-signed and easily avoided. This month should see some big whiting putting in an appearance as well, so there's a bonus.